The Diner Re-imagined - 2020
Anastasia Koutsioukis, who built one of Miami’s most beloved restaurants, the
Mandolin Aegean Bistro, opened Gregory’s Diner at the Vagabond Hotel late last year.
Gregory’s is a 1950s diner and lounge “for all those who still believe in the American
dream,” says Koutsioukis.
Her inspiration was her own family’s immigrant experience. Koutsioukis’ grandfather,
Gregory, was among a wave of Greek immigrants who fled their country amid a civil war
and opened trusted greasy spoons throughout America.
Gregory Zouglas, and his wife Maria, opened the Acropolis Diner, an eggs-all-day kind
of spot, on Euclid Avenue in St. Louis; West End. None of the food was particularly
Greek, but the simple fare kept the neighborhood running for 35 years!
“You could never call it a diner to his face because to him it was fine dining,” joked
Koutsioukis, who worked summers at the restaurant. “He represents every line cook out
there, working in the background. It’s an homage to that unsung hero”; to the
immigrants who came to America and made it great.
For Koutsioukis, Gregorys will always be more than just a gathering place for a meal.
“It’s the story of every one of us. We all have grandparents, great grandparents, or
maybe our parents or even us, a first generation that’s living here and wanting to live
our American dream, she says. And Miami, particularly, is this melting pot of all of
these different cultures, and that’s what the diner always represented.
How so many Greek families came to run these diners in the 50s is a classic American
immigration story that still resonates today. “When the Greeks got here, it was like with
the Italians, or Irish, or any other group before them — they were viewed suspiciously,
like, ‘What do they want? They talk funny,’ and all this stuff,” says Michael C. Gabriele,
author of The History of Diners in New Jersey. “But they were trying hard to get a
foothold on the American dream.”
For the Greeks, it turned out that the American dream lay in restaurant work. One of the
advantages that Greek immigrants had when it came to running small businesses was
that mom-and-pop shops were much more common than chains in Greece, so they were
skilled at dealing with customers and trying to ‘create regulars’ rather than maximizing
the profit on each order.” Although the Greeks didn’t come over as business people, they
understood hard work, were street-wise, and learned what they needed to.
Food critic Pete Genovese reminds us that Greek immigrants brought their own ideas
with them from the homeland. “They didn’t call it a diner, they called it a kafeneion, a
place where the locals hung out. It was basically a glorified coffee shop, but most
importantly, it was the place to find out what’s going on in the community -- local news,
local gossip. It caught on….
Today, more than 500 diners in New York City are still Greek-owned!
