Macaroni and Cheese
The Ultimate Comfort Food
Here’s a great story about an American favorite from the Smithsonian Magazine.
“Being a judge at a macaroni and cheese competition in San Francisco taught me a lot
about American food. The competitors were mostly chefs, and the audience (online
tickets sold out in minutes) was soaking up the chance to be at a “Top Chef” kind of
event, but more urban and cool. The judges included a food writer, an award-winning
grilled-cheese-maker, and me, a cheesemonger.
“We awarded the win to a chef who made mac and cheese with an aged Vermont
cheddar. The audience, however, chose another contestant. When he arrived at the
winner’s circle, he made a stunning announcement: His main ingredient was Velveeta.
“Amazement! Shock! Betrayal! The audience clutched their iconic canned beer but
didn’t quite know how to react. Was it a hoax? A working-class prank against elitism in
food? Was this contest somehow rigged by Kraft? In the end it turned out to just be a
financial decision by the chef: In great American tradition, he bought the cheapest
protein possible!!”
To understand the evolution of macaroni and cheese is to realize that pursuit of the
“cheapest protein possible” has been a longstanding quest of the American food system.
And cheese itself has, at times, shared a similar trajectory.
Cheesemaking, which began 10,000 years ago, was originally about survival for a farm
family or community: taking a very perishable protein (milk) and transforming it into
something less perishable (cheese) so that there would be something to eat at a later
date.
Many of us today think of cheese in the context of tradition, flavor, or saving family
farms, but a basic goal—whether a producer is making farm-made cheddar or
concocting the cheeseless dairy product Velveeta—has always been getting as much
edible food from a gallon of milk as possible.
Macaroni and cheese has been served as long as there has been a United States of
America but in a 20th-century economy driven by convenience packaging and
industrialization it has been elevated to an ideal American food. Pasta and processed
cheese are very cheap to make, easy to ship and store, and certainly fill up the belly.
It’s no wonder a hot gooey Velveeta mac and cheese tastes like a winner to so many
Americans, even those attending a fancy contest in San Francisco!
